Dhawale to Chandragad to Arthurseat point Mahabaleshwar
Trek:
Chandragad to Arthurseat point
Base
village: Dhawale village near poladpur
Height: 4800 feet
Grade:
Tough
Endurance: High
Trek
coordinator: Ayudh Adventures
Trek
lead: Rahul Basankar
Chandragad
was headquarters of Chandrarao More (Jagirdar of Jawali) who had once
challenged Shivaji to come to Jawali and eventually was defeated by Shivaji.
Chandragad
to Arthur Seat point is tough endurance trek.
It is around 9 hours continous jungle trek covering mostly ascent wherein
you have to cover a total of 1020 metres (i.e. 3200 feets) height in single day and few descents
on scree and karvy jungles.
The
trek is can be logically divided into 4 phases:
1. Dhavale
village to Chandragad base
2. Chandragad ascent and exploration
3. Descent
through Chandragad valley
4. Ascent
to bahirichi ghumati and then eventually move and climb to Arthur seat.
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| Trek Map |
As
considered one of the tough endurance treks through dense jungle, chandragad to
Arthurseat was on priority in my so called 'Bucket List'. Having read a blog
from harcore fellow trekkers from Offbeat Sahyadri (Priti Patel, Jinnat
siklikar) i had made up my mind try it once. These guys are ardent explorers exploring new treks and
routes in sahyadri ranges.
Initially i had enrolled with Wild Trek Adventures
from pune for this trek; but due to logitics issue could not make it. However
there was another such trek planned by Ayudh adventures which i chose to enrol.
We
were to gather at Borivali station east at 11:00 pm. Our transporter, a mini
bus arrived and we were on our way to the base village via Mumbai - Goa
highway. After passing poladpur we took left to base village -
Dhawale. The road towards base village were as usual in pathetic state. We
reached base village by 3 Am and stay put in school in that village. We rested
till 6:30 AM and after finishing our morning chores, we had breakfast of pohe
at Mr. More's house. His son santosh more is who usually guides such treks on
this route. But on that day he was not available; so his elderly father was to
be our guide. He was to guide us upto Bahirichi ghumati; so that he would
return to village before dark. His elderly wife (म्हातारी) urged us to relieve
him early.
 |
| Trek started from Dhawale Village with Chandragad to the left |
We
started from dhavale village at 8 Am. Unfortunately we had 2 first time
trekkers in our group of 12 including trek lead Rahul. After a regular trek of
around an hour we reached chandragad base.
 |
| Board at the Chandragad Base |
The ascent towards chandragad is
very steep. Most of the trekkers were somewhat drained in this ascent. The fort has very few remains with 2 water
cisterns. From chandragad top, Rahul pointed us towards Arthurseat point. But
we could not comprehend it then. He also tentatively pointed us Bahirichi
ghumti. After exploring the fort for
around half an hour we descended the Chandragad valley....
 |
| Exploring the Chandragad Fort |
 |
| North end of Chandragad |
 |
| Myself with Raireshwar mountain in the backdrop |
 |
| Bloom |
From
base of chandragad there is a small traverse patch after which begins the
valley facing East.
 |
| Our team - At base of Chandragad Fort |
The
descend is tough as the soil & rocks are loose. Also on the route were
trees fallen. Being in month of March,
the heat drained and dehydrated most of
us completely. At around 12 pm the end of the descent few trekkers had cramps
in their legs and at and could not move further. Heat has taken its toll here.
Hence after much deliberations, Rahul our trek lead allowed 5 of trekkers
decided to halt till there and anyhow return to dhavale village with alternate
route encircling chandragad as guided by our Guide Mr. More. So now here our
team reduced to 7 trekkers out of 12.
Actually
sending them back was going to create us a big problem for our reverse logistics later. As per the original plan the
bus driver was going to drop us to base village (i.e. dhavale) and from there
leave for Arthurseat point in mahabaleshwar and wait for us there. Also to
reduce our baggage weight, most of us had dropped their sleeping bags and other
accesories in bus. But these trekkers were so drained and had cramps in legs
due to dehydration; so rahul have to allow them to return even if our reverse
translortation plan would go haywire. So by the time these guys reached base
village, the driver had left for arthurseat and could not be contacted as there
was no network in jungle. But fortunately dhavale village was there on state
transport network (i.e आमची एसटी) although with very less frequency. So rahul
instructed them to rest for some time and board ST bus and wait at poladpur bus
depo. Here we all were rendered helpless without mobile network which has
become basic necessity along with food, clothing and shelter.
So
we 7 trekkers along with guide started quickly the ascent towards Bahirchi
ghumati. Now the patch between chandragad to Bahirichi ghumti is key patch as
it is dense jungle consisting of karvy trees and thorny bushes. Additionally it
has steep climbs. We had decided to cover this patch as fast as we could before
it gets dark. We being in dense Javli jungles, wild beasts were expected in
this patch. So climb towards ghumati is very critical as it is considered the
safe point. From ghumti the Arthurseat is around 1.5 hours far.
But
our shock, after half an hour of trek, another 3 trekkers who earlier were
determined to finish the trek till end stay put. Nature was throwing challenges
every now and then. But it is these
testing times you learn lessons of life which cannot be learned in any top
management institutions in country. Here we were again in a very tricky
situation, as to what can be done with them. We still had most part of trek
left ahead, which they could not make for. Also if they make for they will so
slow they will drag the entire group's speed. And we could not afford to be
slow in this part of trek, as if gets dark before we reach Arthurseat, we will
end up in dense jungle inhabited with wild beasts in groping in dark. So it was
time for fast decision. Here after seeing our most of our trek mates give up, for
a second we also doubted as to whether we could make it to end point. But
giving up was not the option atleast me and rahul. Here we decided that they return back to base
village as they were really strainful and drained to core. But another major
problem we faced was we were by now in dense jungle and cannot let these
returning trekkers to find way on their own. So we had to send our guide to
accompany them back safely to base village. But sending guide with them will
render us directionless in dense jungle to find our route ahead. Even small mistake in
route will cost us more time and put us in deep trouble. But nevertheless we decided to go ahead with it.
 |
| Place in dense jungle where we bid adieu to our guide Mr. More |
Rahul
instructed them to make for last bus at 5 pm from dhavale village to poladpur
bus depo. Rahul was however somewhat confident
of finding route through directionless paths in dense jungle as he had done
this trek earlier. We had no chioce than
to rest on his discretion to find the way through the jungle. So here our team
was just left with just 4 trekkers out of 12.
We
four Rahul, myself, Shailendra Nalawade and Harshada desai were all determined to
complete the trek,come what may. A true trekker will never give up. I was even
determined to go ahead if we were only 2 of us.
Each
step was tough from there as we were dehydrated and gaining steep height is
more difficult than gradual climb. But we decide to continue the trail fast.
After an hour of trek, we breaked for lunch and gulped our lunch in 10 mins as
we have make towards end at Arthurseat before dark....We set bold target to
reach Arthur seat by 5:30 pm. I had a
peculiar deal with Rahul to make for at 5:30, as only that would enable us to
reach Mumbai by 12 without traffic so that i get the last train to Virar. Do we
think too much ....Yes.... So trekkers are most sophisticated travellers who
have precise time management and logistics planning.
Just
before bahirchi ghumti there are two traverse point (highly exposed ) which are
somewhat tricky to cover. After consistent and determined trek of around 3
hours,we reached Bahirchi Ghumati at around 4 pm. It is actually a small place of worship with few idols.
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| Bahirichi Ghumati |
Here on rockbed we rested
there for about 15 mins. Again resting more will lock our muscles as there were
early signs of cramps in our legs. By now all our water supply has exhausted
and throats were dry. Here rahul recalled some small watering hole in rocks.
But when went for watering hole, we found it was messy with moss in it. Also it
could be also polluted as wild beast drink from same hole. So we dropped idea
to drink from the hole. From here the Arthurseat was around 1.5 hours of
continous trek. We could feel our deep itching dry throats but could not help
but to cover the distance as soon as possible.
Then
we encountered steep scree patch which is called 'Gadhvacha maal'. There almost
everyone of us slipped on the scree.
 |
| Gadhvacha Maal |
Just few metres from here we got first
glimpse of our target - Arthurseat point high above. We were so excited to see
it as for it we had endured quite a lot.
After
short recce break there we started again quickly to reach our target at around
5:45 pm. Here through dense karvy bushes we were inching closer to our target.
 |
| First Glimpse of Arthurseat Point |
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| Still closer look at Arthurseat Point |
Here we had a magnificent sight of rocky cliff of arthurseat point. We could also see Echo point from here. Also savitri river valle was just on the sideways. We also could see Pratapgad fort through savitri valley. Our Words fell short as to what a sight it was. All our fatique ran away with it.
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| Cliff below Arthurseat Point |
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| Pratapgad seen across savitri valley |
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| Chandragad - As seen from base of Arthurseat |
After
few rock patches we climbed Arthurseat which had tourist passing looking at us
jokingly; few advising us (arey yaha se aa...waha se aa.....arey
girega....pagal log he ye)
Finally
we at around 5:45 pm we made up for our target. Our faces glowed in glory. We
had conquered our fears and endured to make for it.
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| At Arthurseat Point Mahabaleshwar |
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| ...and we had that Last Laugh!!! |
Only
4 trekkers out of 12 managed to complete the trek to Arthurseat. Here ran towards
local shacks for water. We literally emptied that guy's entire pot of
buttermilk (chaas) to cool our burning throats. Here our mobile were again in
the network. Rahul called our fellow trekkers back at dhavale and instructed
them to anyhow reach poladpur bus depo, so that we can pick them up from there
on the way.
There
after rehydrating ourselves we called our bus driver and while waiting for him
at that point we were privelaged to encounter a flock of Bison (गवा) coming
towards Arthurseat. Oh my God, what a creation of God it was .Bison's are huge.
One could only imagine the limits of its monstrous strength. Nature has clothed
it with armoured coat of mail.
 |
| Bison with its terror mates |
Then
our driver arrived and we begun our return journey passing through
Mahabaleshwar hill station. There we had strawberrys on the way. Going to
mahabaleshwar and not having strawberry's would be considered foul , isn't it ?
Our
driver was one of its kind professional. I have done many treks and seen many
driver, but have never witnessed one like him. His manevoring through ghats is
just superb. After descending through Ambenali ghat Mumbai Goa highway , we picked our 8 fellow
trekkers(who had left the trek half way) from poladpur ST depo to return back to
Mumbai Bandra at around 12:15 Am. Our driver, we thought should have been a
pilot, given his driving skills. He reached us to Mumbai in approx 7 hours from
Arthurseat point of Mahabaleshwar. Reaching mumbai i got down at bandra
kalanagar sky walk after saluting the driver. He was the real man of the match
then. Forgot his name though.
Some
additional info on this trek.
This
trek is almost impossible in rainy season ...ideal time is December to february
due to cool climate....after that it is difficult due to heat and dehydration
resulting in cramps....
Dont attempt this trek without proper guide.
Dont attempt this trek without proper guide.
With
experienced trekkers, proper planning, and time management ....one hour of
entire trek can be reduced...
About Trek leader: Rahul Basankar of Ayudh Adventures is avid trek leader, who is well acquainted, well researched and networked to conduct any spectrum of treks from easy to difficult, low to high endurance treks. High empathy along with patience with trekkers is what sets him apart from other trek leaders. He has eye for smallest details and is caring for each trekker in his team.
Along with hard-core trekking activites, he also arranges for corporate treks and leisure trips.
Rahul Basankar mobile : 93 20 309636
Website : ayudhadventures.com
Trek guide: Mr. Santosh More has quite good experience guiding treks around this area and was well acquainted with the topography of the area.
Santosh More : 02191 60090620
Food facilities in the Dhavale Village: Mr. More also provides for all food (breakfast, lunch and dinner) needs for the trek.
Cost: Rs 1350 as trek fees including travel charges, food (breakfast, lunch) and trek expertise.
Happy Trekking, Keep Exploring!!!!
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