Trek to Harishchandragad Via Naalichi Vaat

Trek: (Ascend) Harishchandragad trek via naalichi vaat 
Height: 4655 feet

(Descend)  via Junnar darwaja route.

Grade: Tough

Endurance level: Medium

Trek date: 12-13^th November 2016 (2 days trek starting friday night to sunday afternoon.)

Base Village: Walhivale (On Malshej Ghat route)

Participants: Rahul Basankar (trek leader), Irish Pereira, Ankur Singh, Rohit Naik, Shubham.

Coordinator: Ayudh Adventures

Walhivale village coordinates on Google map

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Walhivale village

Harishchandragad Map with key features and routes

    It was a regular weekend and i had decided to spent it trekking in mountains. There was harishchandragad trek on my list yet to done. My friend Rahul Basankar of Ayudh Adventures had planned the same trek to harishchandragad to ascend via naalIchi vaat and descent via junnar darwaja. I called him on friday morning to check out for any vacant seats, as he needed atleast 8 trekkers to make an feasible trek. So he confirmed me for the trek and fixed to meet at kalyan bus depo at 11:30 pm at night . Hence as decided i reached kalyan around 11:45 pm. All thanks to timely central railway, which always has got something or other wrong everytime i travel. Just then when i met Rahul at depo, i found out that we were just 5 of us trek as few of trekkers had dropped out at last minutes. I was happy to be part of small group as smaller the trek group means more close interaction with trek members and greater is the trek pace. Till bus arrived we had small introduction round with fellow trekkers. Rahul and myself had lot to catch up after our last trek of Dhavale village to Chandragad to Arthurseat point (Mahabaleshwar). It was also arranged and aptly managed by Ayudh Adventures in March 2016. It was one of the strenous and hectic trek i have experienced till date.

Just then last ST bus for malshej ghat arrived at the depo, which we boarded and waited for it to depart. We departed around 12: 10 pm to reach tokavade fata around 2 pm. There our other transporter was waiting for us with our guide for the trek ....Sable mama...an elderly person from nearby savarne village located in the perimeter of harishchandragad. He has decades of experience guiding treks around this area and was well acquainted with the topography of the area.

We after an hour of driving in jeep on potholed roads which is the common thing seen in all trek base villages, we reached Walivare village around 2:30 am. There we were to halt at person named dama's places...where some other trekking group was already halted. So we rested there till morning in his house to get up at 6 pm. After finishing our morning cores and breakfast of poha and tea, we started for trek around 7 Am .. 

Walhivale village - Early Morning

Assisted by sable mama..through dried meadows we went ..  After sometime we reached dried riverbed with small boulders...that was our route for the day as i was told. 

Route through Meadows

We can see magnificent kokankada towering above us. Thats was our destiny for the day. Kokankada is a horseshoe shaped curvature ....with a cliff overhang ....it is unique feature of this fort ...

Kokankada - Towering over us - Over target for the day

 After an hour of trekking through riverbed we reached the col between two high rise rock cliffs ...from there we could see Rohidas pinnacle and the col named 'Makad naal' on our right. After exploring it feasibility for its future treks, we moved on. We promised to return to explore it one fine day... we were just below kokankada...there we took left to ascent the col called 'Naalichi vaat'. It was full of boulders and rocks. In betwen there were few streches of scree. We managed to reach the kokankada base ahead of time. As there were many groups due to pass with us on that route, we intende to enter the naali and finish it before them so as to avoid delay. We took a short 5 minutes recharge break here.

Starting point of Naali

But we were pinned down by a regular problem with trekking groups this days; a slow fellow trekker....As a saying goes, "the speed of the herd depends on speed on the slowest animal of the herd". Plus he being an avid photographer had carried an additional bag with camera with lenses along with its tripod stand. He had hard time carrying them up. There we decided to help him with one of those bags, so that he can manage to cover up the pace with us and we complete the trek in time. Thats what the teamwork means to us trekkers....United we stand...

The naali seemed rock cut by water flowing during rainy season. There were huge boulders which we were bypassing to make our way up...After half an hour of ascend we  came across the first of three critical rock patches on this route...It was somewhat easy to traverse though ...for atleast regular trekker can easily manage to climb it without any rope support or equipments. We had some fruits recharge here along with biscuits to top it ....

First Rock Patch

We easily cleared it without any hassles and moved ahead. Now the rocks size was increasing....also few traverses were there in the way... till we encountered the second rock patch. It appeared that we will require rope support to climb it...but our guide Sable mama climbed it with ease...followed by me without rope support...Then we dropped rope to our fellow trekkers to climb up..within few minutes we were able to clear the second rock patch with ease.....

Now the ascend was becoming more steep ..we had to push ourself up a lit bit with each step .... also sun was draining us of our energies... 

Third Rock Patch

After another half an hour we reached the third and most critical rock patch of the route....sable mama and myself we climbed it with some trials ... and dropped rope to support our fellows.... it too was climbed upon within minutes and we were through of the strenous naalichi vaat ...and here were half way through...from here we could see other groups making their way up through naalli below ....however very far off ....

The slowest guy among us was somehow finding it difficult to cope up with our pace given the steep climb and rock patches... so Rahul assisted...pushed him and made sure he keeps moving ....this poor guy had miscalculated this trek for just regular fort trek  ....which it is not!!!! On the contrary, it is one of the toughest and demanding treks in sahyadris....which test you as a trekker....I pushed the front end whereas rahul managed to push the backend of the group....collectively we managed to maintain pace of the trek.

After a short ascend of half an hour through scree, we halted there for lunch break ...as we had drained lots of calories and needed a recharge.... It was 11:30 Am by now ....After having stomachful of chapati rolls....puris .... sandwiches...chocolates.... we took a short nap of 20 minutes ...till here we had maintained our trek pace and consistency...

Then after nap we continued our ascend now with few easy rock patches to reach a small plateau of the fort ....it is covered with dried grass ...after 10 minutes walk we came across a nimbu pani vendor ....it gave us a reason to drop ourselves there to cool our burning throats .....we took a halt of 20 minutes and had 2 glasses each of nimbu pani ....it recharged us our body fluids ....Here the nimbu panic guy named vitthal refused to accept 500 rupee note ...all thanks to our always media centred ....an avid headline manager, viciously enlightened and glorified PM Mr.PM Narendra Modi who has recently announced demonetisation of 500 and 1000 notes in India. I seriously have no idea how they aim to hunt black money with their own leaders toping the list. Anyways we  managed to convince him. Still there was half an hour of trek remaining to be completed.....we completed that too with ease to reach kokankada at around 1 PM...

We were thrilled to see ourselves complete the trek before average time ....with our eyes all towards relishing the magnificent kokankada from top....

Kokankada - Side view

Look at route we followed to way up 

A view from Kokankada Curve centre

What a wonder of nature it is ....you just can't dare to go on the edge .... here we had a round of photography and selfie's ....then we moved towards our staying place just near kokankada.... at person named Bhaskar.  

Bhaskar's shack

This small hut hotel provides all lunch, dinner and breakfast services to trekkers. Additionally he provides with tents to stay in for the night. We reached his place at around 2 PM and dropped ourselves on his clean cow dung plastered verrandah. Oh what a delight it was!  We freshened ourselves and stay put here ....now evening was free for exploring the fort ....we had tea .... and rested here till evening .....

In evening ....we ordered for a tent from bhaskar for night stay ....for 4 pax as there were no additional tent available.... and set it in the open field adjoining kokankada..... there were too many trekkers on harishchandragad on that day ....as many as 20 tents were pitched around us.... we decided to explore sunset from kokankada at first..decided to climb taramati peak ..but we had only few minutes left for sunset....so dropped the plan..then dropped it and moved ahead to cliff end near Rohidas at base of taramati peak.... from there we could see entire malshej ghat along with traffic moving on it .....also on left side was pimpalgaon jog dam seen....forts like sindola was also visible..... but due to fog the clarity was hampered....we 3 Rahul....myself and sable mama spent our time exploring climbing routes to Rohidas pinnacle .... but the route seemed tough from top view..but there it got to have a route .....as villagers climb it to offer sacrifices at Rohidas temple at top...then time was spent clicking pics of surrounding panorama...it was one of mesmerising view from top .....pin drop silence around. Away from civilisations. That's what touches your soul.....

Rohidas Pinnacle

Malshej Ghat wrapped in Fog

Our tent 

By now it was almost dark .....we returned to tent .....had some discussion on mountaineering courses rahul has taken up with Himalyan Mountaineering Institute .....all options available in that courses... it was around 7 pm till then ....we all were hungry after strenuous trekking....and decided to fill our bellies..... or else there was lot of crowd expected at bhaskar's place for dinner ....so we went to have dinner early......

So after dinner we after some more trek discussions slept in cold chilly weather.. It is too cold at this place. As tent allotted was small, we left our 4 mates in it and myself and rahul we stay put at bhaskar's verrandah for night.

First Ray of Sun ...as it struck my Lens

Our group for the trek

We woke up at around 6 am and after morning chores we had breakfast at bhaskars. Then we started return journey at around 8 am and halted at kedareshwar temple on the way. After few clicks we started for return journey enroute balekilla ( top of the fort) After encircling balekilla we came to steep nalli called Junnar darwaja... which is called 'Rajmarg' or kings route...

Rahul - our trek lead with Ballekilla (top of the fort) in the backdrop

Rajmarg ....Junnar Darwaja route as it is popularly Known

That steep descend facing Pimpalgaon Jog Dam

Route towards Khubi Fata

It is fastest route to descend the fort facing south towards khubi fata near malshej ghat... should take not more than 2.5 hours for experienced trekker. But as stated earlier we had a sort of beginer trekker with load of luggage which hampered our decsending speed. Here we also discussed emerging route through 'Taramati Ghal' which is more difficult and challenging than 'Naalichi vaat' . Rahul and myself we a conducted top recce and decided to plan for such a trek in near future.

So with all such nuances we reached khubi fata at around 1pm and had hearty lunch at one of the hotels there and waited for bus. But to our dismay...none of the bus halted at this point, so after waiting for an hour or so ..We got a bus to tokavade fata which is on the way from there we took a bus to kalyan. Here we were done with the trek.

Few points of advice to trekkers planning for this trek:

1) It is difficult grade trek with medium endurance....so beginers strictly avoid such trek (get some experience and then try for it).

2) It is very cold out there especially in months of November and December...so carry extra pair of woolen / thermal clothes.

3) Carry a sleeping bag if possible....

4) Carrying a tent is advisable as you are required to halt at fort for atleast one night. Alternatively bhaskar, who is based near kokankada on fort provides for tent on rent.

5) Avoid smoking on the way... as there are honey bees and hornets on the way in karvy bushes....with sight of smoke they get panicked and may attack on you... which could be fatal ... we have seen one such case in this trek...poor guy was stung at innumerable places on body ...had lost his senses....so beware...Trek leaders please mention 'no smoking' it upfront on the trek itenerary. As due to one rowdy trekker, so group may have to suffer.

6) Carry atleast 3 litres of water each ..... as you tend to dehydrate more as you gain height on steep rocks...no fresh water source between from base village till top of the fort...

About Trek leader: Rahul Basankar of Ayudh Adventures is avid trek leader, who is well acquainted, well researched and networked to conduct any spectrum of treks from easy to difficult, low to high endurance treks. High empathy along with patience with trekkers is what sets him apart from other trek leaders. He has eye for smallest details and is caring for each trekker in his team.

Along with hard-core trekking activites, he also arranges for corporate treks and leisure trips.

Rahul Basankar mobile : 93 20 309636

Website : ayudhadventures.com

Trek guide: Mr.Sable ( sable mama as popularly known) has quite good experience guiding treks around this area and was well acquainted with the topography of the area.

His is based in savarne village. He can be contacted to arrange and guide treks around malshej ghat, Ahmednagar district and around bhandardara. Moreover he also arranges for logistics like jeeps from nodal points to base villages.

Sable mama Mobile : 84 08 032072

Food facilities on the fort: Mr. Bhaskar provides for all food (breakfast, lunch and dinner) needs on the fort. Also provides for tent on rent and localised help in case of emergency.

Bhaskar mobile : 8308081939

Happy Trekking, Keep Exploring!!!!

Trek to Mighty Kamandurg

Kamandurg Trek

Trek Location: Kamandurg

Height: 2100ft

Grade: Medium

Endurance level: Medium

Base village: Devkundi, Poman

Nearest town: Kaman / Vasai

Trekkers: 7 persons (Irish Pereira, Edward Pereira, Garry Lobo, Ronald D’mello, Samson D’mello, Simon D’Souza, Maxson Gonsalves)
Date: 30th Sept 2017

Map route of Kamandurg from Devkhundi Village

We were planning for a trek for long time and finally settled for a short trek to kamandurg, as it can be easily reached from Virar (Where we stay).

Kamandurg is a dome shaped pinnacle near tungareshwar sanctuary. It is the highest point in that mountain range. Our team of 7 persons landed in devkundi village at 7 am in cars which is the nearest base village for the trek. While on the way to the base village, we were welcomed by sunrise top of mountain. It appeared as if volcano erupting through crater.

Sunrise 

Direction towards Devkundi Village

Our group for the trek

Map Coordinates for Devkhundi BaseVillage for Kamandurg  - Click on the link below for Google map coordinates

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Devkhundi Village

Select and set the route from your location.

Devkundi is a small village with small hut type houses. We parked our cars in the village under surveillance of the villager. Then when we enquired the villager of the route to the fort, he gave us some vague directions. There is a small stream flowing next to village. We kept on walking on trail along the stream keeping stream on the left. We were delighted to see ample water flowing in the stream (which would provide us with hearty cooling bath on our return journey). This stream may be dry from November onwards to monsoons. 

The stream 

photomania

We continued on this wet trail for around 15 minutes and decided to have breakfast on banks on stream. It was indeed wonderful experience having full breakfast of sandwiches, bread - omlettes, amul cool, bananas on clear flowing stream.

The trail adjoining the stream

Breakfast time

Afterwards breakfast we continued on the trail for next 5 minutes where we reached a point where we had a two road diverging point with huge mango tree as a landmark (villager had given this landmark) Here we took right towards small hillock and within a few minutes after we had entered into the forest.

The route through dense vegetation cover

Now the trail kept on becoming narrower with thick vegetation. We kept on making inroads within this thick weeds. Also we were gradually gaining height slowly on wet slippery tracts with small boulders. This trail is well defined in summers, but we were probably first to go there after rains, so the this trail was covered with weeds. We had to make way with sticks to make inroads. At some points the vegetation was very dense and few of us experienced scratches while passing through it . There were karvy shrubs, bamboo offshoots making most of the vegetation cover. Occasional teak trees and wild flowers also were found along the way.

Route through grasses

Wild flowers in full bloom

Around an hour or so we took a break under shade and recharged ourselves with additional energy drinks and sandwiches. The green cover is a delight to one’s eyes.

After around 2 hours of walking along the trail through dense vegetation, we came to a point from where kamandurg was visible. 

First glimpse of Kamandurg

We felt motivated seeing our destination and kept moving forward. At some point forward the trial started descending and we felt confused as to whether we are on right track or not. But decide to follow the same as there was no trial other than that to follow due to thick weeds. Fortunately the trail lead us to the base of the kamandurg pinnacle. It was around 11 am (i.e. 3 hrs from base village). We were profusely sweating by now as it had become very hot by now.

Base of  Kamandurg 

Looking at the pinnacle from base, it seemed easy climb of around 45 minutes.But it was not that easy to traverse this steep climb. Moreover this part of trek requires morderate rock climbing along with walking on scree and loose rocks. Few places there are rock cut steps too. Moreover this part of trek trek is exposed to sun as here there are no trees to take cover. There are few cactuses and such thorny plants on the way to pinnacle. Thick weeds were still covering the route. The rock climbing here is not easy for beginners and amateur trekkers. We still kept pressing towards the top. Even after being drained, my trekmates were high in spirit and kept pressing towards the top slowly and steadily.

Spirited trekkers pointing towards top

Cactus in full bloom

Visibly tired trek mates making route through weeds

By now my trek mates were literally drained of their energy as sun had begun to spew his heat to fullest. This period being of october heat is the worst period for trek. After short breaks we kept climbing the pinnacle. One of our trek mates was drained completely here. So we had to wait for him to be recharged. But the as sun's heat kept increasing, the climb became more strenuous. The trek being most of steep climb in humid weather, we were dehydrated as we continued to sweat under full summer like heat. Hence at a point 15 minutes from top my other trek mates stay put leaving me and one mate to continue to top of kamandurg pinnacle. Here the rock climbing was also steep, so we also did not forced them to make it to the top.

So true is the saying 'Coming back safely from trek is job done; summit is a bonus'.

So we both continued the climbing and around 11:45 am we reached the top.

Water tank at the top (Potable water)

The top of the fort has 2 fresh water tanks. Due to the period after rains, the top fort was covered by thick weeds. The water in the tanks is potable water. The water is so clear that one can see base of the tank with small guppies / fishes in it. Here we refreshed ourselves in the water tanks as our faces were nearly burning due to scorching sun. We clicked few clicks here on the top. One can see entire region with Ulhas river to the south, Tungareshwar sanctuary towards North, Vasai city, Naigaon area in the west and Bhiwandi region towards east. From there we resumed our journey back.

Guppies (Fishes) in the tank

Trek mates with Tungareshwar sanctuary in the background

View to the south with Ulhas river in the backdrop

Myself at the top

My partner at the top (Simon Dsouza)

Usually return journey takes half the time spent ascending, and from kamandurg top it would ideally take at the most 2 hrs to reach to the devkhundi village. However in our case it was not the scenario. As mentioned earlier one of our trek mates was beginner and was also drained completely. So we have to maintain his pace to get him down safely.

So the saying goes “The speed of the pack/herd is equal to the speed of the slowest animal”.

So we continued our downward journey with 15-20 minutes breaks couple of times. So our return time was almost equal to ascending time. So after few more halts we finally reached the point where we has our breakfast along the stream at around 3:45 pm. We were just waiting for this point so as to get drenched in water. 

Welcomed cooling break

After such as scorching sun’s heat along the trek, it was just a most welcomed break. Here we had a hearty cooling session for our burning bodies. From there we finally reached the devkhundi village for our return journey back home.

To sum up, it was indeed a wonderful trek offering both trekking as well as basic rock climbing. The trail through nature refreshes one’s mind out of stressful life. This trek is not to be confused with one of the easy grade treks. With hot scorching sun overhead, it can be one of the demanding treks ever.

Few point of advice to trekkers planning for this trek.

• §Please wear full clothes i.e. full sleeved t-shirts, full track pants and cap for this trek.
• §Carry at least 3 litres water each.
• §Start early in a day so as to avoid sun’s heat as much as possible.
• §Carry a rope to assist beginners or amateur trekkers for rock climbing patches of the pinnacle.
• §Hire a guide/local villager (if planning the trek just after rains)

Happy Trekking, Keep Exploring!!!!